Bouquinistes of the Seine

Browsing the Stalls for Music Finds

The bouquinistes have worked along the Seine for centuries, and their green boxes, fixed to the parapets of both banks, are now recognised as part of the riverside landscape that UNESCO lists as World Heritage. The stalls stretch well beyond the Quai de Conti, running roughly from the Louvre side across to the Latin Quarter. A walk along both banks therefore turns up far more variety than a single stop. Sellers set their own hours, and many stay closed in bad weather. A fine afternoon is usually the best time to go, and it helps to keep your plans loose.

What music lovers tend to find

Most stalls lean towards secondhand books, old magazines, postcards and prints rather than records. Music material does turn up, though, often in the forms that are hardest to find elsewhere:

• Sheet music and songbooks, including chanson collections and piano scores from earlier decades.
• Vintage French music magazines, useful for anyone researching how artists were covered at the time.
• Concert posters and reproductions, as well as photographs of jazz clubs, cabarets and music-hall stars.
• Biographies and memoirs, often in French, of singers, composers and performers.

Vinyl is less common than paper, so treat any record you spot as a bonus rather than the main reason for the trip.

Practical tips

Bring cash, because not every seller takes cards. Handle fragile items gently and ask before you leaf through anything wrapped in plastic. A little French and a polite greeting go a long way. Sellers often know their stock well, and some will point you towards a neighbour who specialises in exactly what you want. Prices vary from box to box, so look around before you settle on one.

If browsing the quais gives you a taste for the city's music history, our features explore that history in depth. You can also find more Parisian spots worth a detour in our places section.